SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL) – U. S. 2-4 (6-8, 10-12, 14-16, 18-20 / Euro 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50)
Chest: approx. 51¼ (54¼, 59, 63¾, 68½) in / 130 (138, 150, 162, 174) cm – as measured directly across the chest, from sleeve edge to sleeve edge.
Lower Edge: approx. 31½ (34¾, 37¾, 41, 44) in / 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) cm
Total Length: approx. 21¾ (22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½) in / 55 (56, 58, 60, 62) cm
YARN Raggi (70% superwash wool, 30% nylon; 165 yd/151 m / 100 g, CYCA #4, Aran)
YARN SUBSTITUTE:Järbo 4-ply Gästrike (100% wool; 164 yd/150 m / 100 g, CYCA #4, Aran)
YARN AMOUNTS Approx. 500 (500, 600, 600, 600) g
(Col. 1: 15123 / Col. 2: 15121 / Col. 3: 1518 / Col. 4: 1505 / Col. 5: 1502 / Col. 6: 1508 / Col. 6:15122)
NOTIONS 2 large buttons
NEEDLES U. S. size 8 / 5 mm
GAUGE Approx. 16 sts in garter st = 4 in / 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain gauge if necessary.
Edge sts: Always knit the first and last stitch of every row.
M1 increase = lift strand between 2 sts and knit into back of loop.
Decrease 1 st = K2tog.
CO 68 (74, 80, 86, 94) sts and work back and forth in garter st (= knit every row; the 1st row = WS). When piece measures 9½ (9½, 9¾, 10¼, 10¼) in / 24 (24, 25, 26, 26) cm, increase 1 st inside the edge st at each side. Inc the same way on every other row another 7 times. Now CO 12 (13, 13, 13, 13) sts at each side = 108 (116, 122, 128, 136) sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 11 (11, 11¾, 12¼, 12¾) in / 28 (28, 30, 31, 32) cm from last cast-on row. BO the center 18 (20, 20, 22, 22) sts for neck and work each side separately. K2tog inside edge st at neck edge on every other row 2 times and then BO. Work the other side to correspond.
CO 34 (37, 40, 43, 48) sts and work back and forth in garter st. When piece measures 7½ (7½, 8, 8¼, 8 ¾) in / 19 (19, 20, 21, 22) cm, shape V-neck with k2tog inside edge st at the beginning of row. Dec the same way on every 4th row 2 more times, every 6th row 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) times, and then on every 8th row 2 times.
NOTE When front is at same length as back, shape sleeve as for back.
After completing sleeve and neck shaping, BO.
Work as for right front, reversing shaping to correspond.
Seaming and front edges: Block the pieces by laying them flat on a damp towel and patting them out to finished measurements; cover with another damp towel. Leave until completely dry. Join shoulders. Sew side and sleeve seams. Sew or crochet 2 button loops on the right front - the first at base of V-neck and the other about 2¾ in / 7 cm below. Sew the 2 buttons opposite loops. Store the garment flat.
Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin.
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over
The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.
Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body.
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length.
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.
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