91845. Summer Cardigan

Artnr
91845

The Summer Cardigan is a seamless sweater worked from the top down with two-color stranded knitting and fine details such as pockets and braid edgings! The pattern invites a wealth of variations, providing inspiration for any knitter. It will also be a fun learning challenge for anyone wanting to take the plunge and knit their first large garment!

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Description information
Version number: 8
Designer: Maja Karlsson
Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades
Photo: Maja Karlsson

SIZES Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: approx. 31½ (34¾, 37¾, 41, 45, 48¾) in / 80 (88, 96, 104, 114, 124) cm
Length: approx. 21¾ (21¾, 22, 22¾, 22¾, 23¼) in / 55 (55, 56, 58, 58, 59) cm
MATERIALS
Yarn: CYCA #2 (sport), Kambgarn (100% Merino wool, 163 yd/150 m / 50 g) or a similar size yarn in Järbo yarn group 3.
Yarn Colors and Amounts:
Main Color (MC) – Aqua 38130: approx. 400 (400, 450, 450, 500, 550) g
Contrast Color (CC) – Sandshell 38109: approx. 100 (150, 150, 150, 150, 200) g
Needles: U. S. sizes 4 and 6 / 3.5 and 4 mm: 32 in / 80 cm circulars and set of 5 dpn for sleeves
Gauge: approx. 24 sts and 29 rows in stockinette and pattern on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
Adjust needle sizes to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
Notions: 8 buttons 3/8-5/8 inch / 1-1.5 cm diameter; 60 in / 150 cm long decorative ribbon for lining the button/buttonhole bands; sewing thread for sewing down the cut steek edges.

STITCH TECHNIQUE
Invisible Increase – RLI – right-lifted increase: 1. Insert right needle into stitch loop of stitch below first st on left needle. Lift the stitch onto left needle tip and knit. 2. Knit the st originally at front of left needle (see illustration below).

STRANDED COLORWORK YOKE
Neckband:
With MC and smaller size circular, CO 128 (132, 136, 144, 152, 152) sts.

Ribbing:
Row 1 (WS): P3, (k2, p2) until 1 st remains, p1.
Row 2 (RS): K3, (p2, k2) until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 3 (WS): P3, (k2, p2) until 1 st remains, p1.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until ribbing measures 1¼ in / 3 cm.
NOTE Finish ribbing with a WS row.

Steek: CO 3 sts [= steek stitches 1-3], k64 (66, 68, 72, 76, 76), RLI (see Stitch Technique above), knit to end of row, CO 2 sts [= steek sts 4-5] = 134 (138, 142, 150, 158, 158) sts total.

From this point on, the cardigan is worked in the round.

Latvian Braid:
NOTE Knit sts 1-3 of the steek as: MC, CC, MC) and steek sts 4-5 with MC, CC on rounds using both colors; otherwise knit the steek with MC.
Rnd 1: [Knit steek sts 1-3]; Latvian Braid: (K1 with MC, k1 with CC) until 3 sts rem, k1 with MC, [knit steek sts 4-5].
Rnd 2: [Knit steek sts 1-3]; Latvian Braid: Hold both strands at front throughout braid sts and always bring the new color UNDER the previous one. P1 with MC, (p1 with CC, p1 with MC) until 2 sts rem, [knit steek sts 4-5].
Rnd 3: [Knit steek sts 1-3]; Latvian Braid: Hold both strands at front throughout braid sts and always bring the new color OVER the previous one. P1 with MC, (p1 with CC, p1 with MC) until 2 sts rem, [knit steek sts 4-5].

YOKE
NOTE From this point on, the cardigan is worked in the round in stockinette (knit all sts). Note that the steek stitches are included in the stitch count - through out the entire pattern!

Change to larger size circular. With MC, knit 5 rnds
NOTE See the table below (after Finishing) for details on evenly increasing around. Do not increase within the 5 steek sts. Increase with RLI technique.

Increase Rnd 1: Increase 40 (40, 44, 44, 48, 52) sts evenly spaced around = 174 (178, 186, 194, 206, 210) sts.
Knit 5 rnds.

Increase Rnd 2: Increase 35 (41, 43, 45, 48, 51) sts evenly spaced around = 209 (219, 229, 239, 254, 261) sts.
Knit 4 rnds.

Increase Rnd 3: Increase 41 (43, 45, 47, 50, 53) sts evenly spaced around = 250 (262, 274, 286, 304, 314) sts.
Knit 4 rnds.

Increase Rnd 4: Increase 26 (30, 34, 34, 36, 42) sts evenly spaced around = 276 (292, 308, 320, 340, 356) sts.
Knit 1 rnd.

Work pattern following chart A, rows 1-22, setting up pattern as follows:
XS: [Steek sts 1-3], rep sts 1-10 27 times, knit st 1, [steek sts 4-5]
S: [Steek sts 1-3], work sts 8-10, rep sts 1-10 28 times, work sts 1-4, [steek sts 4-5]
M: [Steek sts 1-3], work st 10, rep sts 1-10 30 times, work sts 1-2, [steek sts 4-5]
L: [Steek sts 1-3], work sts 9-10, rep sts 1-10 31 times, work sts 1-3, [steek sts 4-5]
XL: [Steek sts 1-3], work sts 9-10, rep sts 1-10 33 times, work sts 1-3, [steek sts 4-5]
XXL: [Steek sts 1-3], rep sts 1-10 35 times, work st 1 [steek sts 4-5]
Knit 8 rounds.

Increase Rnd 5: Increase (with RLI) 5 (5, 9, 13, 21, 29) sts evenly spaced around = 281 (297, 317, 333, 361, 385) sts.
Knit 2 (2, 2, 5, 5, 8) rnds.

DIVIDE SWEATER FOR BODY AND SLEEEVES
Knit steek sts 1-3, k39 (42, 48, 50, 56, 61) = left front; place the following 58 (60, 62, 64, 68, 72) sts on a holder = left sleeve, CO 10 (12, 16, 20, 24, 28) sts for underarm, K 82(88)92(100)108(114) = back, place the following 58 (60, 62, 64, 68, 72) sts on a holder = right sleeve; CO 10 (12, 16, 20, 24, 28) sts for underarm, k39 (42, 48, 50, 56, 61) = right front; knit steek sts 4-5 = 165 (177, 193, 205, 225, 241) sts.Now there are 185 (201, 225, 245, 273, 297) sts around.

BODY
Continue working stockinette in the round until body measures 8¾ (8¾, 9, 9½, 9½, 9½) in / 22 (22, 23, 24, 24, 24) cm from underarm.

SET UP FOR POCKETS
Knit steek sts 1-3, k8 (10, 16, 20, 24, 28),  *with smooth, contrast-color waste yarn, k26 (for placement of pocket). Slide the 26 sts back to left needle and knit again with MC.* Work until 36 (38, 44, 48, 52, 56) sts remain. Repeat * to *; knit to end of rnd. Work around in stockinette until 2¾ in / 7 cm below pocket placement.

Lower Edge
Latvian Braid:
Change to smaller size circular                                             .

Latvian Braid:
Rnd 1: [Knit steek sts 1-3]; Latvian Braid: (K1 with MC, k1 with CC) until 3 sts rem, k1 with MC, [knit steek sts 4-5].
Rnd 2: [Knit steek sts 1-3]; Latvian Braid: Hold both strands at front throughout braid sts and always bring the new color UNDER the previous one. P1 with MC, (p1 with CC, p1 with MC) until 2 sts rem, [knit steek sts 4-5].
Rnd 3: [Knit steek sts 1-3]; Latvian Braid: Hold both strands at front throughout braid sts and always bring the new color OVER the previous one. P1 with MC, (p1 with CC, p1 with MC) until 2 sts rem, [knit steek sts 4-5].

The rest of the body is worked back and forth.

Ribbing:
With CC:
Row 1 (RS): BO steek sts 1-3, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): BO steek sts 5-4, p3, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1.
Row 3 (RS): K3, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1.
Row 4 (WS): P3, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until ribbing measures 2 in / 5 cm. Last ribbing row is on WS.
BO in ribbing on RS.

SLEEVES (make both alike)
Place the 58 (60, 62, 64, 68, 72) sts of one sleeve onto larger size short circular (change to dpn when sts no longer fit around circular). Beginning at center of underarm, pick up and knit 5 (6, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts, knit across sleeve sts; pick up and knit 5 (6, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts to center of underarm = 68 (72, 78, 84, 92, 100) sts total. Knit around in stockinette until sleeve measures 2½, 2¾, 2½, 1½, 1¼, 3¼) in / 6 (7, 6, 4, 3, 8) cm.

Sleeve Shaping:
Decrease Rnd: K1, sl 1, k1, psso, knit until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1 = 2 sts decreased.
Repeat this decrease rnd every 1¼ (1¼, 2, 2, ¾, 5/8) in / 3 (3, 2.5, 2.5, 2, 1.5) cm a total of 10 (10, 13, 14, 18, 20) times = 48 (52, 52, 56, 56, 60) sts rem. Continue in stockinette until sleeve is 13½ (13¾, 14¼, 14½, 14½, 14½) in / 34 (35, 36, 37, 37, 37) cm long. If the last rnd is a decrease rnd, knit 1 more rnd after it before working the color pattern.

Work in pattern following chart B.
Knit 2 rnds.

Sleeve Cuff:
Latvian Braid:
Change to smaller size needle (or dpn).
Rnd 1: (K1 MC, k1 CC) around.
Rnd 2: Hold both strands at front throughout braid sts and always bring the new color UNDER the previous one, (P1 MC, p1 CC) around.
Rnd 3: Hold both strands at front throughout braid sts and always bring the new color OVER the previous one, (P1 MC, p1 CC) around.

Knit 1 rnd with CC.

Ribbing:
With CC: Work around in k2, p2 ribbing for 3¼ in / 8 cm.

FRONT BANDS
With small size circular and CC:

Right Front Band – Buttonhole Band
With RS facing you: Pick up and knit 146 (146, 146, 150, 150, 150) sts up right front, working into the first st after steek sts 1-3.
Row 1: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row.
Row 2: K2, (p2, k2) to end of row.
Row 3: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row.
Row 4: Work as for Row 2.
Row 5: Work as for Row 3.
Row 6 (buttonhole row A):
Sizes XS, S, and M: K2, *k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2*; rep * to * 7 times, yo, k2tog, k2.
Sizes L, XL, and XXL: K2, p2, *k2tog, yo,  p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2*; rep * to * 7 times, yo, k2tog, p2, k2.
Row 7 (buttonhole row B): P2, (k2, p2) to end of row.
Rows 8-11: Repeat Rows 2-3 2 times.
BO in ribbing.

Left Front Band – Button Band
With RS facing you: Pick up and knit 146 (146, 146, 150, 150, 150) sts down left front, working into the first st before steek sts 4-5.
Row 1: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row.
Row 2: K2, (p2, k2) to end of row.
Row 3: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row.
Rows 4-11: Repeat Rows 2-3 4 more times.
BO in ribbing.

CUTTING THE STEEK OPEN
With back stitch by hand or with machine-stitching, reinforce the steek on each side of the center of the 5 steek stitches. Very carefully, cut the steek up the center stitch. The cut edges will roll in towards the wrong side.

POCKETS
Slide a smaller size dpn into the sts above the waste yarn; slide another dpn into the sts below the waste yarn. Carefully remove the waste yarn. Begin by working back and forth in ribbing over the lower set of 26 sts as follows:
With CC:

Row 1: Knit all stitches
Row 2: P2, (k2, p2) row end of row.

Row 3: K2, (p2, k2) to end of row.
Row 4: P2, (k2, p2) row end of row.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until ribbing measures 1¼ in / 3 cm, ending with a WS row. BO in ribbing.

Pocket Lining – with the upper row of 26 sts:
With larger size needle and CC, work back and forth in stockinette (= knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until pocket measures 2¾ in / 7 cm. End with a WS row and then BO.
NOTE Use MC to sew down pocket lining so the stitches won’t be visible on the RS.
Sew the pocket lining as invisibly as possible to WS, down the sides and across lower edge. With CC, sew down the edges of the ribbing on the RS.

FINISHING
Sew on the 8 buttons. If desired, sew on a decorative ribbon to cover the cut edges of steek. Otherwise, sew the edges down on WS with leftover yarn from the sweater. Weave in all ends neatly on WS.

TABLE FOR YOKE INCREASE ROUNDS
Here’s how to space the increases evenly.

Increase Round 1:
XS: K4, (RLI, k2) 15 times, (RLI, k3) 8 times, (RLI, k2) 16 times, RLI, k3.
S: K5, (RLI, k2) 13 times, (RLI, k3) 12 times, (RLI, k2) 14 times, RLI, k3.
M: K5, (RLI, k2) 19 times, (RLI, k3) 4 times, (RLI, k2) 20 times, RLI, k3.
L: K5, (RLI, k2) 15 times, (RLI, k3) 12 times, (RLI, k2) 16 times, RLI, k3.
XL: K5, (RLI, k2) 19 times, (RLI, k3) 8 times, (RLI, k2) 20 times, RLI, k3.
XXL: K4, (RLI, k2) 24 times, (RLI, k1) 2 times, (RLI, k2) 25 times, RLI, k2.

Increase Round 2:
XS: K5, (RLI, k3) 3 times, (RLI, k4) 28 times, (RLI, k3) 3 times, RLI, k4.
S: K5, (RLI, k3) 16 times, (RLI, k4) 8 times, (RLI, k3) 16 times, RLI, k4.
M: K5, (RLI, k3) 17 times, (RLI, k4) 8 times, (RLI, k3) 17 times, RLI, k4.
L: K5, (RLI, k3) 18 times, (RLI, k4) 8 times, (RLI, k3) 18 times, RLI, k4.
XL: K5, (RLI, k4) 4 times, (RLI, k3) 38 times, (RLI, k4) 5 times, RLI, k3.
XXL: K5, (RLI, k3) 25 times, (RLI, k3) 25 times, RLI, k4.

Increase Round 3:
XS: K5, (RLI, k4) 20 times, (RLI, k4) 20 times, RLI, k3.
S: K5, (RLI, k4) 21 times, (RLI, k4) 21 times, RLI, k3.
M: K5, (RLI, k4) 22 times, (RLI, k4) 22 times, RLI, k3.
L: K5, (RLI, k4) 23 times, (RLI, k4) 23 times, RLI, k3.
XL: K5, (RLI, k4) 24 times, (RLI, k4) 25 times, RLI, k3.
XXL: K5, (RLI, k4) 22 times, (RLI, k3) 8 times, (RLI, k4) 22 times, RLI, k3.

Increase Round 4:
XS: K8, (RLI, k8) 7 times, (RLI, k9) 10 times, (RLI, k8) 8 times, RLI, k6.
S: K7, (RLI, k8) 8 times, (RLI, k7) 12 times, (RLI, k8) 9 times, RLI, k5.
M: K7, RLI, k6, (RLI, k7) 30 times, (RLI, k6) 2 times, RLI, k5.
L: K7, (RLI, k8) 4 times, (RLI, k7) 24 times, (RLI, k8) 5 times, RLI, k5.
XL: K7, (RLI, k8) 5 times, (RLI, k7) 24 times, (RLI, k8) 6 times, RLI, k5.
XXL: K7, (RLI, k6) 13 times, (RLI, k7) 14 times, (RLI, k6) 14 times, RLI, k5.

Increase Round 5:
XS: K30, (RLI, k53) 2 times, (RLI, k53) 2 times, RLI, k29.
S: K31, RLI, k57, (RLI, k56) 2 times, RLI, k57, RLI, k30.
M: K19, (RLI, k33) 3 times, (RLI, k32) 2 times, (RLI, k33) 3 times, RLI, k18.
L: K15, (RLI, k23) 5 times, (RLI, k24) 2 times, (RLI, k23) 5 times, RLI, k14.
XL: K10, (RLI, k15) 10 times, (RLI, k15) 10 times, RLI, k9.
XXL: K9, (RLI, k11) 13 times, (RLI, k12) 2 times, (RLI, k11) 13 times, RLI, k8.

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You're reviewing:91845. Summer Cardigan

Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin. 
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

Knitting
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over

Crocheting
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over

The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.

Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body. 
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length. 
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.

Do you have a question? Write to us at info@jarbo.se and we will help you!