TO FIT SHOE SIZES
Children’s: U. S. 1-3½ / Euro 32-35
Women’s: U. S. 5½ -8½ / Euro 36-39
Men’s: U. S. 7+ / Euro 40+
YARN Raggi (70% superwash wool, 30% nylon; 165 yd/151 m / 100 g, CYCA #4)
Fig 1: approx. 75 (100, 100) g (15126, red / 1549, light gray / 15119 gray)
Fig 2: approx. 15 (20, 20) g (1549, light gray / 15126, red)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 7 and 8 / 4.5 and 5 mm
NOTIONS 2 stitch markers
GAUGE Approx. 15-15½ sts and 34 rows in garter st on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain gauge if necessary.
Increase 1 st: Make 1 (M1): lift strand between 2 sts, twist it onto left needle and knit into back loop.
The slippers are worked in garter stitch (knit all rows).
Children’s size: Work rows 1-11, 15-21, 27-37.
Women’s and Men’s sizes: Work all rows.
Knitting Tip: You can easily lengthen the slippers by knitting more rows between rows 15-23 (that is, on the rows without any increases).
SLIPPERS (make both alike)
With main color and larger size needles, cast on 47 (55, 57) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K23 (27, 28), pm, k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Knit.
Row 3: Knit to marker, sl m, M1, k1, M1, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Knit to marker, sl m, M1, k3, M1, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 7: Knit to marker, sl m, M1, k5, M1, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 9: Knit to marker, sl m, M1, k7, M1, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 11: Knit to marker, sl m, M1, k9, M1, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 13: Knit to marker, sl m, M1, k11, M1, sl m, knit to end of row.
Rows 15-23: Knit without any increases, slipping markers as you come to them.
Row 25: Knit to marker, sl m, ssk, k9, k2tog, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 27: Knit to marker, sl m, ssk, k7, k2tog, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 29: Knit to marker, sl m, ssk, k5, k2tog, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 31: Knit to marker, sl m, ssk, k3, k2tog, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 33: Knit to marker, sl m, ssk, k1, k2tog, sl m, knit to end of row.
Row 35: Knit to marker, remove marker, sl 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, remove marker, knit to end of row.
Rows 36-41: Change to smaller size needles. With contrast color, work across in k1, p1 ribbing. BO in ribbing. Cut yarn, leaving a long end.
Fold the slipper at the center with right sides facing out. Join the back seam with mattress stitch sewing back and forth through the outermost st at each side. Cut yarn and weave in all ends neatly on WS.
Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin.
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RM=remove marker, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette/stocking stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over
The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.
Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body.
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length.
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.
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