Learn how to knit ragg socks


Do you want to learn how to knit? Our team at Järbo Garn has made a series of teaching videos that guide you through knitting step by step, clearly demonstrating every important point on the way. A warm welcome to knitting classic garments such as a cap, scarf, ragg socks and Lovikka mittens together with us!

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Description information
Version number: 1
Designer: Järbo Garn
Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades
Photo: Bianca Brandon-Cox

SIZES - U. S. SHOE SIZES T6-8 (T8½ -10, C11-12½, C13-1½, C2½ or W4-5½, W6½-8½, W9½-11½ or M7-9, M10-12) 
SIZES - EURO 22-24 (25-27, 28-30, 31-33, 34-36, 37-39, 40-42, 43-45) 
YARN Järbo Garn Raggi (70% superwash wool, 30% polyamide; 164 yd/150 m / 100 g, CYCA #4, Aran)  Color 1500, natural white.
YARN AMOUNTS approx. 100 (100, 100, 100, 100, 150, 150, 150) g 
NEEDLES Set of 5 dpn U. S. sizes 4 and 7 / 3.5 and 4.5 mm 
GAUGE Approx. 19 sts and 24 rnds in stockinette with larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm 

Leg: https://youtu.be/3YcTXBBazZ0
Heel: https://youtu.be/OOcQbPQ4f8A
Foot: https://youtu.be/uicMQX84lrk

Stockinette worked back and forth: Row 1 (RS): Knit across. Row 2 (WS): Purl across. Repeat Rows 1-2. Stockinette in the round: Knit all rounds. 
Slip 1: With yarn behind, slip one st from left to right needle as if to purl, without knitting st. 
Slip 1 purlwise: With yarn in front, as if to purl, slip one st from left to right needle without purling it. 

With smaller size dpn, cast on 36 (36, 40, 40, 40, 48, 48, 52) sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn, with 9 (9, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13) sts on each needle. 

Work around in k2, p2 ribbing for 4 (4-4¾, 4¾-5¼, 5¼-5½, 5½-6, 6-6¼, 6-6¼, 6-6¼) in / 10 (10-12, 12-13, 13-14, 14-15, 15-16, 15-16, 15-16) cm. Change to larger size dpn and continue in stockinette. On the 1st rnd, decrease 8 sts evenly spaced around. Knit 1 more rnd. 

Work back and forth in stockinette over sts on needles 1 and 2 for a total of 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 20) rows, ending on WS. 

On the next, RS, row begin short rows and decreases: 
K8 (8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13), k2tog tbl, k1; turn. 
Sl 1 purlwise, p3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5), p2tog, p1; turn. 
Sl 1, k4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6), k2tog tbl, k1; turn. 
Sl 1 purlwise, p5 (5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7), p2tog, p1; turn. 
Sl 1, k6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8), k2tog tbl. Sizes U.S. T6-W5½ / Euro 22-36: Turn. Sizes U. S. W6½-M12 / Euro 37-45: K1, turn. 
Sl 1 purlwise, p6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9), p2tog. Sizes U.S. T6-W5½ / Euro 22-36: Continue at *. Sizes U. S. W6½-M12 / Euro 37-45: P1; turn. 
Sl 1, k0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 10, 10, 10), k2tog tbl. Sizes U. S. W6½-M9 / Euro 37-42: Turn. Sizes U.S. M10-12 / Euro 43-45: K1; turn. 
Sl 1 purlwise, p0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 10, 10, 11), p2tog. Sizes U. S. W6½-M9 / Euro 37-42: Continue at *. Sizes U.S. M10-12 / Euro 43-45: P1. 
*All sizes: All sts from each side of heel have now been worked. Knit sts on needles 1 and 2. 

Pick up and knit 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts on right side of heel flap (= needle 2), work in stockinette across needles 3 and 4; pick up and knit 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts on left side of heel flap and knit remaining sts of heel (= needle 1). Knit 1 rnd over all sts. On the next rnd, decrease on needles 1 and 2 as follows (the decreases are worked on picked-up sts). 
Needle 2: K2tog with last 2 sts on needle. 
Needle 1: K2tog tbl with first 2 sts on needle. 
Decrease the same way on every other rnd until 28 (28, 32, 32, 32, 32, 40, 40, 44) sts total remain. Divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn. 

Knit around in stockinette until foot measures (from back of heel): 4 (4¾, 5½, 6¼, 7, 7½, 8, 8¾) in / 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 20.5, 22) cm. 
Shape toe: 
Needles 1 and 3: K1, k2tog, knit to end of needle. 
Needles 2 and 4: Knit until 3 sts remain, k2tog tbl, k1. 
Decrease the same way on every other rnd until 16 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20) sts remain. Now choose either a straight or round toe. 

(Three-needle bind-off) 
Divide the sts over 2 needles; turn work so WS faces out. 
Bind off as follows: Hold the needles parallel in your left hand with RS facing RS. K2tog using the first st on each needle;  *k2tog with next st on each needle, pass the first st on right needle over the second = 1 st bound off*. Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Cut yarn and draw through remaining st. 

Cut yarn and draw end through remaining sts; tighten. 

Weave in all ends neatly on WS. 

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Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin. 
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RM=remove marker, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette/stocking stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over

approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over

The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.

Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body. 
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length. 
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.

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