Sommarkoftan (Summer Cardigan) 2020

Artnr
91875

The Summer Cardigan is a seamless cropped dress sweater, with resplendent pattern panels and garter stitch front bands. It is knitted in one piece, from the bottom up, with raglan shaping for the yoke.

Have you made this pattern? Show us with hashtag #jarbogarn

Description information
Version number: 2
Designer: Maja Karlsson
Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades
Photo: Maja Karlsson

SIZES
Women’s S (M, L, XL, XXL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: approx. 37¾ (41¼, 45¼, 49¼, 52¾) in / 96 (105, 115, 125, 134) cm
Length: approx. 17 (17¾, 18¼, 19, 20) in / 43 (45, 46, 48, 51) cm
Sleeve Length to Underarm: approx. 19¼ (19¾, 19¾, 19¾, 21) in / 49 (50, 50, 50, 53) cm
YARN
CYCA #2 (sport), Järbo 2 tr ull (2-Ply Wool) (100% wool, 328 yd/300 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS:
CYCA #2 (sport), Järbo Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g)
CYCA #2 (sport), Järbo Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/168  m / 50 g)
CYCA #1 (fingering), Järbo Junior (70% acrylic, 30% nylon, 184 yd/168 m / 50 g)
CYCA #2 (sport), Ístex Kambgarn (100% Merino wool, 164 yd/150 m / 50 g)
YARN COLORS and AMOUNTS
Color 1: Nostalgia 74103: approx. 300 (300, 300, 400, 400) g
Color 2: Mauve Mood 74129: approx. 70 (75, 80, 90, 100) g
Color 3: Country Walk 74147: approx. 20 (20, 20, 30, 30) g
NOTIONS 11 buttons, 3/8 in / 10 mm in diameter; optional–-ribbon for covering cut  steeek edges, approx. 1¼ yd / 1 m; 5 stitch markers
NEEDLES
U. S. size 2.5 / 3 mm: 32 in / 80 cm circular and set of 5 dpn
GAUGE
Approx. 25 sts x 30 rnds in stockinette = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary.

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES
M1L (make 1 left): With left needle, pick up the stand between 2 stitches from front to back and knit into back loop.
M1R (make 1 right): With left needle, pick up the stand between 2 stitches from back to front and knit into front loop.
Slip marker (sl m): When you come to a marker, move it from the left needle to the right needle.
Raglan Shaping: *Knit until 4 sts before raglan marker, sl 1, k1, psso (or ssk), k2, sl m, k2, k2tog.* Rep * to * at every raglan marker.
NOTE On the last raglan decrease round, for sizes XL and XXL, work instead as: *Knit until 4 sts rem before raglan marker, sl 1, k1,  psso, k2, sl m, k2, sl 2 sts knitwise from left to right needle as if to k2tog, k1, psso, k2, sl m, k2, k2tog.* Rep * to * once more.
Steek: in this pattern, the steek = last st of the rnd.
Cardigan Length: This cardigan is a waist-length cropped dress sweater. If you want a "normal" length sweater, you can lengthen the section after the pattern panels by knitting another 4 in / 10 cm or desired extra length. If you make the cardigan 4 in / 10 cm longer, you’ll need 70-100 g extra of color 1.

BODY
With color 2 and circular, CO 240 (264, 288, 312, 336) sts. Join, being careful not to twist cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd. Work around in k1, p1 ribbing for 2 in / 5 cm.
Continue in stockinette (knit all rounds): Knit 4 rnds.
Now work in pattern following Chart A (rep sts 1-24 around), working chart rows 1-31.
NOTE Don’t forget to move beginning of rnd marker up every rnd so you can insure that the pattern placement stays correct.
With color 1: Work around in stockinette until body measures 10¼ (10¾, 11, 11¾, 12¾) in / 26 (27, 28, 30, 32) cm or desired length to underarms.


BO 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts centered at each side for underarms as follows:
K54 (59, 64, 69, 74), BO 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts (after the bind-off, 1 st rem on right needle), k108 (118, 128, 138, 148), BO 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts (after the bind-off, 1 st rem on right needle), k54 (59, 64, 69, 74) = 218 (238, 258, 278, 298) sts rem.
Set aside body (place sts on a holder/long length of smooth yarn) while you knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES
With color 2 and dpn, CO 54 (60, 60, 66, 66) sts. Divide sts onto dpn and join; pm for beginning of rnd. Work around in k1, p1 ribbing for 2 in / 5 cm.
Continue in stockinette (knit all rounds): Knit 4 rnds.
Now work in pattern following Chart B (rep sts 1-6 around), working chart rows 1-13.
NOTE Don’t forget to move beginning of rnd marker up every rnd so you can insure that the pattern placement stays correct.

With color 1: Knit 4 rnds.

Increase Rnd: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem on rnd, M1R, k1.

Continue around in stockinette, repeating increase rnd every 1 (1, ¾, ¾, ¾) in / 2.5 (2.5, 2, 2, 2) cm until there are 86 (90, 96, 100, 106) sts. Continue in stockinette until sleeve is 19¼ (19¾, 19¾, 19¾, 21) in / 49 (50, 50, 50, 53) cm long or desired length.

Finish sleeve by binding off at underarm as follows: knit until 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts rem, BO 11 (13, 15, 17, 19)  sts = 75 (77, 81, 83, 87) sts rem.

Place sleeve sts on a holder and set aside while you knit the second sleeve the same way.

YOKE
Now it’s time to join all the pieces.
With circular, color 1, and RS facing you, arrange the pieces on the needle as follows:
Right Front: K54 (59, 64, 69, 74);
Right Sleeve: K75 (77, 81, 83, 87);
Back: K109 (119, 129, 139, 149);
Left Sleeve: K75 (77, 81, 83, 87);
Left Front: K54 (59, 64, 69, 74)
=  total of 368 (392, 420, 444, 472) sts.

Knit 1 rnd, at the same time, placing markers (use a different color marker for beginning of rnd) as follows:
Pm for beginning of rnd, pm at intersection of right front and right sleeve, pm at intersection of right sleeve and back; pm at intersection of back and left sleeve; pm at intersection of left sleeve and left front = 4 raglan decrease line markers + 1 marker at beginning of rnd.

Raglan Shaping:
Work around in stockinette and decrease on every rnd as described under Stitches and Techniques above) a total of 8 (8, 9, 10, 12) times and then on every other rnd a total of 21 (23, 24, 25, 23) times.

Neckband:
Knit until 10 (10, 11, 11, 22) sts rem and then BO 19 (19, 21, 21, 23) sts – these sts will form the neckband.
NOTE At the same time as binding off, move marker for beginning of rnd to last ordinary st of rnd to indicate that it is the steek st.
Continue rnd as it began with binding off and raglan shaping as before on this rnd. Now begin working back and forth.
Turn, p2tog, and then purl to end of row.

Continue working back and forth in stockinette (= knit on RS and purl on WS).
Decrease at the beginning of each row as follows:
RS: Sl 1, k1, psso (or ssk).
WS: P2tog.
Also on RS rows: Continue raglan decreases as est until 26 (28, 29, 29, 29) decreases have been made on alternate rows. (The 8 (8, 9, 10, 12) preliminary raglan decreases  are not included in this count.)
After the last raglan decrease row, purl 1 row as follows:
P2tog, purl until 2 sts rem, p2tog = 67 (75, 85, 103, 109) sts rem.

RIGHT FRONT BAND (with buttonholes):
With RS facing you, color 1, and circular: Pick up and knit 116 (118, 120, 124, 128) sts in the 3rd st line after beginning of rnd.
NOTE To make sure sts are evenly distributed, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows.

Knit 3 rows.

Buttonhole row, size S: K2, *k2tog, yo, k9*; rep * to * 9 more times, k2tog, yo, k2.
Buttonhole row, size M: K3, *k2tog, yo, k9*; rep * to * 9 more times, k2tog, yo, k3.
Buttonhole row, size L: K4, *k2tog, yo, k9*; rep * to * 9 more times, k2tog, yo, k4.
Buttonhole row, size XL: K6, *k2tog, yo, k9*; rep * to * 9 more times, k2tog, yo, k6.
Buttonhole row, size XXL: K3, *k2tog, yo, k10*; rep * to * 9 more times, k2tog, yo, k3.

Knit 3 rows.

To make a more stable and durable edge, decrease every 4th st as you bind off:
*BO 3 sts, k2tog, BO the decreased st*; rep from * to * until all sts have been bound off.
NOTE The bind-off might end in the middle of a repeat.

LEFT FRONT BAND (button band):
With RS facing you, color 1, and circular: Pick up and knit 116 (118, 120, 124, 128) sts in the 4th st line before beginning of rnd.
NOTE To make sure sts are evenly distributed, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows.

Knit 7 rows.

BO as for right front band.

NECKBAND
With RS facing you, color 1, and circular: Pick up and knit sts along right front neck – *1 st in each of the next 3 sts, skip next st*; rep * to * until you come to the live sts. K67 (75, 85, 103, 109) sts; pick up and knit same number of sts on left side of neck as on right.

Knit 5 rows back and forth.
BO as for right front band.

REINFORCE AND CUT STEEK
Reinforce steek by hand stitching with back stitch and sewing thread on each side of steek st. Carefully cut steek open up center steek st (note that steek sts will roll in to WS).

FINISHING
Sew on 11 buttons to button band spaced as for buttonholes. Seam underarms with Kitchener st, closing any holes at sides. Hand stitch on ribbon to cover cut edges of steek if desired, or, sew down steek edges on WS using leftover yarn from sweater.
Weave in all ends neatly on WS.

Write Your Own Review
You're reviewing:Sommarkoftan (Summer Cardigan) 2020

Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin. 
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

Knitting
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RM=remove marker, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette/stocking stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over

Crocheting
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over

The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.

Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body. 
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length. 
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.

Do you have a question? Write to us at info@jarbo.se and we will help you!

You may also like!