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Siw - baby romper with invisible buttoning

Artnr
91860

Siw - a plain baby romper in linen and cotton, with raglan shaping for the shoulders and worked top-down. The top of the romper is knitted in linen, and the bottom part is made in cotton for a softer feeling. Popper fastenings in one of the raglan shapings, as well as at the crotch, makes dressing and changing easier. Sample shown in size 86-92. This collection of patterns also includes a romper with puffed sleeves and a lace pattern at front, and a matching tee for both ladies and children.

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Description information
Version number: 2
Designer: Kristin Blom
Translator: Loveina Khans
Photo: Daniel Bernstål

YARN
Yarn 1: Järbo Lin (100% linen. Approx. 100 g = 200 m/218 yd)
Yarn 2: Soft Cotton (100% cotton. Approx. 50 g = 80 m/87 yd)
GAUGE: Approx. 19 sts x 24 rows in Stocking Stitch on 3 mm needles = 10 x 10 cm
SIZES CL 50-56(62-68)74-80(86-92) cl
FINISHED MEASUREMENT CHEST Approx. 46(51)53(57) cm
FULL LENGTH Approx. 30(34)38(41) cm
SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 10(12)14(16) cm

YOU NEED
Yarn 1: Approx. 50(55)60(65) g (colour 48116, Pumpkin, Järbo Lin)
Yarn 2: Approx. 45(50)60(70) g (colour 8843, Mocca Brown, Soft Cotton)
CIRCULAR NEEDLES 3 mm circular needle, 40 cm and 80 cm or longer
DPNs 3 mm double pointed needles for cast-on (optional)
NOTIONS Scoubidou cords or stitch holders, tapestry needle, a pair of scissors, stitch markers. A ribbon to line the button edges (approx. 35 cm for raglan opening and 25 cm for the crotch, 60 cm in total. If you’ve worked the romper in two colours, make sure to match the ribbon with the yarn.) 6(6)7(7) popper fastenings, approx. 10-12 mm in diameter (you can use different sized buttons for sleeve opening and crotch).

ABBREVIATIONS
DS: Double stitch - Is used in the German Short Rows technique. With yarn at front, pull yarn firmly up and back over the needle to create a double stitch, where both the two 'legs' of the stich is visible. Slip the double stitch to right needle. See extended explanation under ‘German Short Rows’ below.
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together (right leaning decrease). 1 st decr
M: Marker(s)
M1L: Make one left leaning increase, lift the strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch with the left needle tip from front, knit through back loop. 1 st inc
M1R: Make one right leaning increase, lift the strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch with the left needle tip from back, knit through front loop. 1 st inc
SM: Slip marker from left to right needle, as if to purl.
SSK: Slip, slip, knit – slip one stitch at the time as if to knit, slip a second stitch the same way, put them back on the left needle and knit them together through the back loop (left leaning dec) – 1 st decreased.

I-cord cast-on: Cast on 4 sts, don’t turn work, *slip the sts back on left needle if using a circular needle (on dpn:s you just slide the sts from left to right needle tip), knit 4 sts, repeat from * until desired length.

German Short Rows: When knitting short rows in this pattern, the German Short Rows method is used, as it is a simple way to do short rows. However, this is not always the easiest method to learn through reading. If you’re not familiar with the method, we recommend that you search on YouTube for a video tutorial. German Short rows are done like this: knit to the place where you want to turn, turn the work and slip the last knitted stitch from left to right needle, with yarn at front pull the yarn firmly up over the stitch and to the back which makes a double stitch (DS) with the two 'legs' of the stitch visible. Knit the next stitch a little bit tighter than usual and continue knitting. When you later work a double stitch, make sure to knit both legs together as one stitch. 

Magic Loop: A method to make a work with small circumference using a longer circular needle by pulling the cable out of the knitting in one or two loops. 

Knit up new stitches: *K1 and don’t slip off, put the new st on left needle tip, repeat from * until you have the right number of sts. 

On our Youtube page you will find videos showing several of the technical aspects.

PATTERN BEGINS

NECK
Using Yarn 1 and 3 mm DPNs (or the longer circular needle), cast on 4 sts. Work i-cord for 53(57)61(65) rnds – approx. 25(27)29(31) cm, it can vary according to gauge and a slightly longer i-cord is alright too. If shorter, continue until you reach the desired length. Break yarn and pull through sts. With longer circular needle, pick up 53(57)61(65) sts along the i-cord by starting at right edge and working your way towards the left, pick up one stitch in each stitch (be careful not to pick up stitches in only one of the legs of the stitch, but through the stitch as a whole). Pick up stitches in all rows on the i-cord (even if that makes for more stitches than called for, and decrease to the proper number on next row - that makes a much neater result than skipping stitches).
The yoke is worked flat as follows:  
Setup Row (WS): K4, PM, p17(19)19(21) for front, PM, p8(8)10(10) for right sleeve, PM, p16(18)18(20) for back, PM, p8(8)10(10) for left sleeve.

SHORT ROWS
Short rows shape the neck for better fit and comfort.
Short Row 1: K to second M, SM, k5, turn work, DS, purl to M, SM, p to M, SM, p5, turn work, DS.
Short Row 2: K to M, SM, k to 3 sts before next M, turn work, DS, p to 3 sts before M, turn work, DS, knit to end and be careful to knit the two legs of the double stitches together as one stitch.
Next Row (WS): K4, SM, purl to end and slip markers as you go.

YOKE
The yoke is worked flat and shaped with raglan increases. The last 4 sts on each RS row makes a garter edge for the popper fastenings.
Row 1 (RS, inc row): *K1, M1L, k to 1 st before M, M1R, SM, repeat from * 3 more times, k4. 8 sts inc
Row 2 (WS): K4, SM, p to end and SM as you go.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 another 10(12)13(14) times.
88(96)104(112) increased sts – 141(153)165(177) sts

Continue as established by knitting St st for 0(0)4(6) rows with the garter stitch at the 4 last sts at RS and 4 first sts on WS, or until the yoke measures 10(12)14(16) cm at front.
Next Row (RS): Cast off next 32(34)38(40) sts for sleeve, RM, knit to next M, cast off next 32(34)38(40) sts for the other sleeve, RM, k to M, SM, k4.  77(85)89(97) sts
Next Row (WS): Cast off 3 sts (with a regular non-stretchy cast-off), RM, cast off 1 st, p to M, RM, turn work, knit up 2 sts, PM, knit up another 2 sts, turn work, purl to end of front, turn work, knit up 2 sts, PM for beginning of rnd, knit up 2 more sts, don’t turn – next rnd is from RS. 4 sts dec, 8 sts inc81(89)93(101) sts
Next Rnd (RS): Change to 3 mm 40 cm circular needle, knit to end.
Work St st until work measures 16.5(19)21(22.5) cm. Make sure to measure the work centre at front. The back is longer, because of the short rows.
Break Yarn 1, join Yarn 2 and work St st.

SHORT ROWS FOR SEAT
To make a perfect fit for seat and diaper, some short rows now will be added for extra space.
Next Rnd: Knit to end.
Short Row 1: K to 3 sts before M, turn work, DS, p to 3 sts before M, turn work, DS.
Short Row 2: K to 3 sts before DS, turn work, DS, p to 3 sts before DS, turn work, DS.
Short Row 3: K to 3 sts before DS, turn work, DS, purl to 3 sts before DS, turn work, DS, k to end and make sure to knit the two legs of the DS:s together as one stitch when you get to them.
Work St st for 2(1.5)3(2) cm – PM at the start for easier measurement.

CROTCH
The crotch piece is first worked in Garter Stitch over 12 sts at each side and the sts between them in St st. Then the back and front will be worked separately.
Rnd 1: *P6, knit to 6 sts before M, P6, repeat from * once.
Rnd 2: Knit to end.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 two more times.
Rnd 3: P6, *k to 6 sts before M, P3, cast off 2 sts, RM, cast off 4 sts, repeat from * once. Put sts for front at Scoubidou/stitch holder, continue working the back. 12 sts decreased
From here the front and back pieces are worked flat separately.
Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 st (from cast-off) to right needle, k2, SSK, knit to 5 sts from end, K2tog, k3.
Row 2 (WS): K3, p to 3 sts from end, k3.
Row 3 (RS): K3, SSK, knit to 5 sts from end, K2tog, k3.
Row 4 (WS): K3, p to 3 sts from end, k3.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 another 7(8)8(10) times.
Repeat Row 3 once more. 14(16)18(18) sts
Beginning at WS, work Garter Stitch for 5 rows. End with a WS row. Cast off from RS.
Repeat from Row 1 for front piece.

FINISHING
Sew the Garter Stitch edging to the WRONG side of the front raglan edge.
Sew ribbons along the Wrong Side of the sleeve lining (cut the ribbon 2 cm longer than needed, and fold 1 cm at each end before sewing). At the Garter Stitch raglan edging, the ribbon is sewn on the WS so that it isn’t visible from RS.
Sew ribbon on WS along each leg opening.
Sew 3 popper fastenings each on the ribbons at raglan opening, and at the crotch opening.
Weave in all ends, soak in lukewarm water, make sure to squeeze out as much water as possible without wringing or twisting and press the romper in a towel. Block to measurements and let dry.

SCHEMATICS
A: Chest circumference = Approx. 46(51)53(57) cm
B: Length at front = Approx. 30(34)38(41) cm
C: Yoke length = Approx. 10(12)14(16) cm
D: Neck opening = Approx. 25(27)29(31) cm
E: Thigh width = Approx. 12.5(14)16(17.5) cm
F: Crotch opening = Approx. 7(8)9(10) cm
Dotted lines indicate an opening. Arrows in chart show the direction of knitting.

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Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin. 
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

Knitting
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RM=remove marker, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette/stocking stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over

Crocheting
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over

The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.

Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body. 
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length. 
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.

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