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Siw - ladies’ tee with lace patterned shoulders

Artnr
91863

Siw is an oversized tee worked top-down. A beautiful Bellflower lace pattern on each shoulder makes this tee a fun knit, and the stockinette on the rest of the tee shows off the nice and plain structure of the linen show at its best. The extra width enables a nice drape. Siw is available as a tee for both children and ladies, as well as a romper for babies up to 1 year old.

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Description information
Version number: 8
Designer: Kristin Blom
Translator: Loveina Khans
Photo: Daniel Bernstål

YARN Järbo Lin (100% linen. Approx. 100 g = 200 m/218 yd)
GAUGE Approx. 19 sts x 24 rows in stockinette stitch on 3,5 mm needle = 10 x 10 cm
SIZES XS(S)M(L)XL(2XL)3XL(4XL)
SIZES EU 32-34(36-38)40-42(44-46)48-50(52-54)56-58(60-62)
CHEST CIRUMCFERENCE – body Approx. 86(94)103(113)123(133)143(153) cm
CHEST CIRUMCFERENCE – finished tee Approx. 116(124)133(143)159(169)179(189) – approx. 30 cm positive ease.
FULL LENGTH Approx. 47(48)49(50)51(52)53(53) cm
SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 5(5)6(6)7(7)8(8) cm

YOU NEED
YARN: Approx. 250(300)300(350)400(400)450(450) g (colour 48109, Indigo)
CIRCULAR NEEDLES 3 mm circular needles 40 cm and 80 cm (sizes XS-M) and/or 100 cm (sizes L-4XL)
NOTIONS Scoubidou cords or stitch holders, tapestry needle, a pair of scissors, stitch markers.

ABBREVIATIONS
DS: Double stitch - Is used in the German Short Rows method. With yarn at front, pull yarn firmly up and back over the needle to create a double stitch, where both the two 'legs' of the stich is visible. Slip the double stitch to right needle. See extended explanation under 'German Short Rows' below.
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together (right lining decrease). 1 st dec
K2tog tbl: Knit 2 sts together through the back loop (left lining decrease). 1 st dec
K3tog: Knit 3 sts together (right lining decrease). 2 sts dec
K4tog: Knit 4 sts together (right lining decrease). 3 sts dec
M: Marker(s)
M1R: Make one right leaning increase, lift the strand between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch with the left needle tip from back, knit through front loop. 1 st inc
SK2P: Slip one stitch purlwise, knit two stitches together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch. 2 sts dec
SK3P: Slip one stitch purlwise, knit three stitches together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch. 3 sts dec
SM: Slip marker from left to right needle, as if to purl.
SSK: Slip, slip, knit – slip one stitch at the time as if to knit, slip a second stitch the same way, put them back at the left needle and knit them together through back loop (left lining decrease). 1 st dec

I-cord cast-on: Cast on 4 sts, don’t turn, *slip the sts back on left needle if using a circular needle (on DPNs you just slide the sts from left to right needle tip), knit 4 sts, repeat from * until desired length.

I-cord cast-off: Cast on 3 sts on left needle, *k3, k2tog tbl, slip the 4 knitted sts back to left needle tip, repeat from * until 4 sts left, break yarn and pull through to secure sts.

German Short Rows: When knitting short rows in this pattern, the German Short Rows method is used, as it is a simple way to do short rows. However, this is not always the easiest method to learn through reading. If you’re not familiar with the method, we recommend that you search on YouTube for a video tutorial. German Short rows are done like this: knit to the place where you want to turn, turn the work and slip the last knitted stitch from left to right needle, with yarn at front pull the yarn firmly up over the stitch and to the back which makes a double stitch (DS) with the two 'legs' of the stitch visible. Knit the next stitch a little bit tighter than usual and continue knitting. When you later work a double stitch, make sure to knit both legs together as one stitch.

Magic Loop: A method to make a work with small circumference using a longer circular needle by pulling the cable out of the knitting in one or two loops. 

Knit up new stitches: *K1 and don’t slip off, put the new st on left needle tip, repeat from * until you have the right number of sts. 

On our Youtube page you will find videos showing several of the technical aspects.

The Chart – written instruction
Row 1: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog x 3, k2, yo, k3, yo, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 2: K1, p1, k2, p2, k15, p2, k2, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 3: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2 yo, k2tog, k3tog x 2, yo, k1, yo, k2, [SSK, yo] x 2, p2, yo k2tog, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 4: K1, p1, k2, p2, k13, p2, k2, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 5: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k4tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, [SSK, yo] x 2, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 6: K1, p1, k2, p2, k13, p2, k2, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 7: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, [k2, SSK, yo] x 2, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 8: K1, p1, k2, p2, k15, p2, k2, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 9: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, SSK x 3, yo, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 10: K1, p1, k2, p2, k15, p2, k2, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 11: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, [yo, k2tog] x 2, k2, yo, k1, yo, SK2P x 2, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 12: K1, p1, k2, p2, k13, p2, k2, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 13: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, [yo, k2tog] x 2, k2, yo, k3, yo, SK3P, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 17 sts.
Row 14: K1, p1, k2, p2, k13, p2, k2, p1, k1. 25 sts.
Row 15: K1, p1, SSK, yo, p2, [yo, k2tog] x 2, k2, yo, SSK, k2, yo, k1, yo, SSK, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p1, k1. 27 sts.
Row 16: K1, p1, k2, p2, k15, p2, k2, p1, k1. 27 sts.

PATTERN BEGINS

NECK
Using a 3 mm 40 cm circular needle (or DPNs), cast on 4 sts.
Knit i-cord for 124(124)136(136)144(152)152(164) rnds – approx. 66(65)70(70)75(80)80(85) cm, it can vary according to gauge, stretch the cord when measuring since it will stretch later. If shorter, continue until you reach the desired length and pick up sts in every rnd but decrease to the right amount of sts on next rnd. Break yarn and pull through sts.
With 40 cm circular needle, pick up 124(124)136(136)144(152)152(164) sts on the i-cord by starting at right edge and working your way towards the left, pick up one stitch in each stitch (be careful not to pick up stitches in only one of the legs of the stitch, but through the stitch as a whole). Pick up stitches in all rows along the i-cord, even though that makes it more stitches than it should be, and decrease to the proper number on next row (that makes a much neater result than skipping stitches).

Join to work in the rnd, be careful not to twist.
Next Rnd: PM, knit to end.

SHORT ROWS
Short rows shape the neck for better fit and comfort.
Short Row 1: K31(31)34(34)36(38)38(41), turn work, DS, p61(61)67(67)71(75)75(81), turn work, DS.
Short Row 2: K to 10 sts before DS, turn work, DS, p to 10 sts before DS, turn work, DS.
Short Row 3: K to 7 sts before DS, turn work, DS, purl to 7 sts before DS, turn work, DS, knit to end and be careful to knit the two legs of the double stitches together as one stitch. Continue with the yoke.

YOKE
Note: when changing skein, place the switch next to the chart sts on one of the sleeves.
Setup Rnd: K17(17)20(20)22(24)24(27), PM, work row 1 from Chart or written instruction (27 sts), PM, k35(35)41(41)45(49)49(55), PM, work row 1 from Chart or written instruction (27 sts), k2tog, k to end.
About the lace pattern: When all 16 rows of the Chart are worked, you start over from Row 1 as many times as you need for your size. The lace pattern varies in number of sts, and therefore these sts are not included in the total number of sts.
Moving marker for beginning of Rnd: RM, K17(17)20(20)22(24)24(27), next marker is now for beginning of Rnd (change marker to a different colour if possible).
Next rnd: *SM, work next row from Chart, SM, k to M, repeat from * once.
Repeat Rnd 1 another 1(1)1(1)3(3)3(3) times.
Change to longer circular needle when needed.
Rnd 1 (inc): *SM, work next row from Chart, SM, k5(4)6(4)4(4)2(4), M1R, [k1, M1R] repeat to 6(4)6(5)4(5)3(5) sts before next M, k to M, repeat from * once.
50(56)60(66)76(82)90(94) sts inc – 120(126)142(148)166(180)188(204) sts + Chart sts.
Work Rnd 1 another 12(13)13(14)13(14)14(15) times.
Rnd 2 (inc): *SM, work next row from lace pattern, SM, k7(5)6(6)5(5)3(5), M1R, [k2, M1R] repeat to 7(6)7(6)6(5)3(5) sts before next M, k to M, repeat from * once.
48(54)60(64)74(82)90(94) sts inc – 168(180)202(212)240(262)278(298) sts + Chart sts.
Work Rnd 1 another 12(13)13(14)13(14)14(15) times.
Rnd 3 (inc): *SM, work next row from lace pattern, SM, k7(6)7(6)6(5)5(7), M1R, [k3, M1R] repeat to 8(6)7(7)6(6)5(7) sts before next M, k to M, repeat from * once.
48(54)60(64)74(82)88(92) sts inc – 216(234)262(276)314(344)366(390) sts + Chart sts.
Work Rnd 1 another 12(13)13(14)13(14)14(15) times.
Rnd 4 (inc): *SM, work next row from lace pattern, SM, k8(6)9(7)6(6)5(7), M1R, [k4, M1R] repeat to 8(7)10(7)7(6)6(8) sts before next M, k to M, repeat from * once.
48(54)58(64)74(82)88(92) sts inc – 264(288)320(340)388(426)454(482) sts + Chart sts.
Work Rnd 1 another 12(13)13(14)13(14)14(15) times.
It’s important to note where you are at in the Chart at this point, so you know where to continue when working the sleeves later.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES
Break yarn and start a new skein, even if you have yarn left. Weaving in ends on linen in stockinette might be tricky, and this prevents you from having too many ends to weave in on the body. When starting a new skein later, make sure that the switch is under arm, where it is least visible.
Next Rnd: Work as Rnd 1 to 16(18)21(23)27(32)34(36) sts from end of rnd, PM for beginning of rnd, *put 16(18)21(23)27(32)34(36) sts + the Chart sts + 16(18)21(23)27(32)34(36) sts on hold on scoubidou or scrap yarn, turn work, knit up 10 new sts, turn work, k to 16(18)21(23)27(32)34(36) sts to M, repeat from* once, knit to end. 220(236)258(270)302(320)340(360) sts

BODY
Work St st until work measures 24(24)24(24)25(25)26(25) cm from under arm. Cast off with i-cord.

SLEEVES
Put sts for one sleeve back on needle (DPNs or a circular needle) or both sleeves on one longer circular needle if you using magic loop. When working the sleeves one at a time, please note what Chart rnd is the first sleeve rnd.
Setup Rnd: Begin under arm, pick up and knit 5 sts, work sleeve sts as established with the lace pattern between markers, at end of rnd pick up and knit 5 sts.
Continue as established until the sleeve measures 5(5)6(6)7(7)8(8) cm. End with an even rnd.
Cast off with i-cord.
Repeat for the second sleeve.

FINISHING
Sew the i-cord ends together at neck, arms and body before weaving in all ends.
Soak the top in lukewarm water for at least an hour so all fibres get thoroughly wet, make sure to squeeze out as much excess water as possible without wringing or twisting and press the garment in a towel. Block to measurements, put a small towel in the in each sleeve for flat blocking and let dry.

SCHEMATICS
A: Chest = Approx. 116(124)133(143)159(169)179(189) cm
B: Full length at front = Approx. 47(48)49(50)51(52)53(53) cm
C: Body length from under arm = Approx. 25(25)25(25)26(26)27(26) cm
D: Neck = Approx. 66(65)70(70)75(80)80(85) cm
E: Sleeve width = Approx. 32(33)35(38)42(47)49(52) cm
F: Sleeve length = Approx. 5(5)6(6)7(7)8(8) cm
Arrows in chart shows the direction of knitting.

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Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin. 
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

Knitting
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RM=remove marker, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette/stocking stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over

Crocheting
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over

The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.

Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body. 
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length. 
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.

Do you have a question? Write to us at info@jarbo.se and we will help you!

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