'Sjön' / "The Sea", Cardigan with Patterned Yoke
Sjön (The Sea) is a lovely, fairy-tale cardigan perfect for chilly fall and winter days. Léttlopi is light, airy, and warm. The beautiful yoke adds an elegant finishing touch!
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SIZES Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) / Euro 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54)
Chest: approx. 34¾ (37¾, 41, 45, 49¼, 52¾) in / 88 (96, 104, 114, 125, 134) cm
Total Length: approx. 22 (22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 25¼) in / 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 64) cm
Léttlopi (100% Icelandic wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g, CYCA #4, Aran, worsted, afghan)
Alternate Yarn: Järbo Garn Group 5 or CYCA #4 (NOTE Substitute yarn may affect amount of yarn needed and how the garment looks)
Color A (MC): approx. 350 (400, 450, 500, 550, 600) g Léttlopi color 10867 Chocolate Heather
Color A (MC): approx. 100 (100, 100, 100, 150, 150) g Léttlopi color 10085 Oatmeal Heather
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 6 and 7 / 4 and 4.5 mm: 32 in / 80 cm circulars and sets of 5 dpn (dpn not needed if you can use circular needles for Magic Loop)
NOTIONS 7 buttons; tapestry needle for weaving in ends and to seam underarms
GAUGE Approx. 18 sts x 25 rows in stockinette on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
Edge stitches: The outermost stitch at each side is always knitted as an edge st on all rows. Edge sts are not included on the charts. Do not work increases or decreases with edge sts unless otherwise specified.
Make 1L (M1L): With left needle tip from front to back , lift the strand between 2 sts and knit into back loop. See video here.
Make 1R (M1R): With left needle tip from back to front , lift the strand between 2 sts and knit into front loop. See video here.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together for a right-leaning decrease.
BACK AND FRONT
With smaller size circular and color 1, CO 172 (188, 204, 224, 244, 264) sts. Working back and forth, knit 1 row (= WS) and then work 10 rows in pattern inside the edge sts following chart 1. Change to larger size circular and continue with color 1 only. Work in stockinette inside edge sts. On the 2nd row, decrease 16 (16, 20, 20, 20, 24) sts evenly spaced across = 156 (172, 184, 204, 224, 240) sts rem. When piece measures 13 (13½, 13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15) in / 33 (34, 35, 36, 37, 38) cm, after a purl row on WS, set piece aside.
The sleeves are worked in the round, from the cuff up; both sleeves are worked the same way.
With smaller size dpn or Magic Loop circular and color A (MC), CO 44 (48, 48, 52, 52, 56) sts. Join to work in the round; pm for beginning of rnd. Purl 1 round.
Work in pattern following chart 1 for 8 rnds. Change to larger size dpn or circular and continue with color A only. On the next rnd, decrease 2 (4, 2, 4, 4, 6) sts evenly spaced around. On the next rnd, begin increasing to shape sleeve as follows:
K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem on rnd, M1R, K1.
Rep this increase row every 2 (1½, 1½, 1½, 1¼, 1¼) in / 5 (4, 4, 4, 3.5, 3.5) cm until there are a total of 56 (62, 64, 66, 70, 74) sts. When sleeve measures 17¾ (18¼, 18½, 19, 19¼, 19¾) in / 45 (46, 47, 48, 49, 50) cm, Place the first and last 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts on a holder. Place rem sts on a holder. Make 2nd sleeve the same way.
Now join the pieces as follows. With U. S. 7 / 4.5 mm circular and color A: K33 (36, 39, 43, 48, 51), place 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts on a holder for underarm, k46 (50, 52, 52, 56, 58) = first sleeve, k70 (76, 82, 90, 100, 106) = back, place 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts on a holder for underarm, k46 (50, 52, 52, 56, 58) = second sleeve and then k33 (36, 39, 43, 48, 51) = total of 228 (248, 264, 280, 308, 324) sts.
Now work in pattern inside edge sts following chart 2. After completing pattern, change to smaller size circular and color B. Purl 1 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1) row and then knit 4 rows. Loosely BO knitwise.
Left Front Band: With RS facing, smaller size circular, color A, and working from top down, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along front edge. Knit 5 rows back and forth. BO loosely.
Right Front Band: Work as for left front, picking up sts from bottom up, but, on row 3, make 7 buttonholes. Place top buttonhole about 5/8 in / 1.5 cm down from top of neckband and the bottom one about ¾ in / 2 cm from lower edge; space remaining buttonholes evenly between. For each buttonhole, BO 2 sts and then CO 2 sts over each gap on next row.
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Seam underarms with mattress stitch.
Pat out garment to finished measurements. Dampen sweater and leave until completely dry. If necessary, lightly steam press edges down under a damp pressing cloth.
Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn (even in the same yarn group).
To avoid problems: Read entirely through the pattern before you begin.
Gauge (tension): Always knit/crochet a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If you get a different gauge, try with a smaller or larger needle size. If the gauge isn't correct the work may be a different shape and size.
To make it easier to follow the instructions, use a colored pencil or highlighter to mark your size.
Chart: To make it easier to follow the chart, use a ruler under the on-going row.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.
alt=alternately, approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, BO=bind off, cc=contrasting color, cn=cable needle, CO=cast on, col=color, cont=continue, dec=decrease, dpn(s)=double-pointed needles, fl=front loop, g st=garter stitch, inc=increase, k1f&b=knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k=knit (stitch), k2tog=knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw=knitwise, LH=left hand needle, m=marker, mm=millimeters, mc=main color, p=purl (stitch), patt=pattern, pm=place marker, pw=purlwise, rep=repeat, rnd(s)=round/rounds, RH=right hand needle, RM=remove marker, RS=right side, sl=slip, sl m=slip marker, ssk=slip, slip, knit, st(s)=stitches, St st=stockinette/stocking stitch, tog=together, WS=wrong side, wyib=with yarn in back, wyif=with yarn in front, yo=yarn over
approx.=approximately, beg=begin, bl=back loop, ch=chain stitch, col=color, cont=continue, dc=double crochet, dec=decrease, dtr=double treble crochet, fl=front loop, hdc=half double crochet, htr=half treble crochet, inc=increase, m=marker, mc=main color, rep=repeat, rnd/rnds=round/rounds, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st=slip stitch, sts=stitches, tog=together, tr=treble crochet, tr tr=triple treble crochet, WS=wrong side, yo=yarn over
The range of movement for the garments in our patterns varies depending on the garment type, shape and design. In order to find the right size, we recommend that you first measure all measurements directly on the body, according to the tables below. Then you decide the size of the garment yourself, based on how much movement you want the garment to have.
Chest (a), waist (b) and hips (c) are measured around the body.
Children's clothing is measured in centilong (cl),which is the same as the childs length.
Premature = Children born before the week of pregnancy 38.
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