Mamelucker 2.0 – could that be something?
My (Maja’s) mamelucker, as these garments are called in Swedish, are knitted woollen knickers that are both comfortable and stylish. The ribbed side wedges provide for a very good fit. You deserve a pair, don’t you? They are perfect as warm underwear on the skiing tour or indeed as a fashionable accessory on the dance floor in the big city!
MAJA’S MAMELUCKER
Size: M/L (Would you like to make another size? Instructions for adjusting the pattern to other sizes can be found below)
Fits hipwidth: 104 – 110 cm (41,5” – 44”)
Yarn: 200 gr Gästrike 2 tr
Circular needles: 2,5 mm (40 cm and 60 cm/16” and 24”)
Double pointed needles: 2,5 mm
Gauge: 28 stitches and 40 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
Special techniques
Short row: When knitting short rows, wrap the yarn around the stitches in this way: On the rightside: With the yarn in front of the work, transfer the next stitch to the right needle. Move the yarn to the back of the work and transfer the stitch back to the left needle. Turn. When knitting a wrapped stitch, knit through both the stitch and the wrap at the same time. On the wrong side: With the yarn at the back of the the work, transfer the next stitch to the right needle. Move the yarn to the front of the work and transfer the stitch back to the left needle. Turn. When you encounter a wrapped stitch, knit through both the stitch and the wrap at the same time.
Increase 1 stitch below: Insert the right needle into the top loop of the stitch below the next stitch on your left needle, pick it up and put it on the left needle. Knit this new stitch through the front loop, then knit the original stitch.
WAIST:
With the longer size 2,5 mm circular needle and Gästrike 2 tr cast on 160 stitches. Join in the round and work in rib pattern (k2, p2) until the rib measures 20 cm (8”).
MIDDLE PART:
Row 1: *Work rib pattern (k2, p2) over 38 stitches, k42*, repeat *-* once.
Increase row A: **Place marker, *k2, p2* repeat *-* 8 more times more, k2, place marker, increase 1 stitch below in each of the following 42 stitches**, repeat from **-** once = 244 stitches.
Row 3: *Work rib pattern (k2, p2) over 38 stitches, k84*, repeat *-* once.
Increase row B: *Work rib pattern (k2, p2) over 38 m, increase 1 stitch below, k84, increase 1 stitch below*, repeat *-* once. (You have now increased 4 stitches) Repeat increase row B every 5th row 6 more times (a total of 7 times). All other rows are worked as row 3 = 272 stitches. Work row 3 until the middle part measures 13 cm (5,2”).
Shape the back with short rows:
Note! Don’t forget to knit the wrapped stitches together with the wraps at the same time when you encounter them.
Short row 1: Work in rib pattern (k2, p2) over 38 stitches, k100, p2, k1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 2: P1, k2, p102, k2, p1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 3: K1, p2, k102, p2, k2, p2, k1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 4: P1 k2, p2, k2, p102, k2, p2, k2, p1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 5: K1, p2, k2, p2, k102, (p2, k2) twice, p2, k1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 6: P1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p102, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 7: K1, (p2, k2) twice, p2, k102, (p2, k2) 3 times, p2, k2, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 8: P1, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2, p102, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2, p1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short row 9: K1, (P2, K2) 3 times, p2, k102, (p2, k2) 4 times, p2, k1, wrap the next stitch and turn.
Short rows 10-16: Continue working short rows as described, but work 4 extra stitches at the end of the row before you wrap and turn. Work one row, following the instructions for row 3. Cut the yarn. Leave all stiches, except the middle 18 front stitches, on the circular needle. Transfer the 18 middle stitches to a double pointed needle (there are now 40 stitches on either side before the beginning of the ribbed side wedges).
Wedge for crotch:
Work back and forth in stocking stitch over the 18 stitches on the double pointed needle until the wedge measures 11 cm (4,4”). End with a purl row. Then increase 1 stitch in each side on every other row 6 times. Note: The increases are worked on the knit rows, with the right side facing. Cut the yarn but leave a tail for grafting. Put the 30 stitches in the middle of the back on a double pointed needle and transfer the remaining stitches to 2 other needles. Graft the crotch wedge together with the 30 stitches on the double pointed needle in the middle of the back, as shown in the drawing. This will result in an unvisible seam. On each side of the crotch wedge there are 34 stitches before the ribbed side wedges.
Grafting
LEG RIBBING:
Put half the remaining stitches on a circular needle = 112 stitches.
Right leg: With the right side facing: Beginning in the middle of the crotch wedge pick up 14 stitches, k34, 38 in rib pattern, k40 and end with picking up 14 stitches along the remaining part of wedge = 140 stitches. Join and knit in the round in rib pattern (k2, p2) for 12 rows. Cast off in rib pattern. Cut the yarn.
Left leg: With the right side facing: Beginning in the middle of the crotch wedge pick up 14 stitches, k40, 38 in rib pattern, k34 and end with picking up 14 stitches along the remaining part of the wedge = 140 stitches. Join and knit in the round in rib pattern (k2, p2) for 12 rows. Cast off in rib pattern. Cut the yarn. Weave in ends.
Instructions for adjusting the pattern:
The instructions are based on my waist size 72 cm, which is equivalent to size medium (29”). To make a smaller or larger size, decrease or increase the number of stitches you cast on with a number that divide by 4. Two stitches in rib pattern roughly measures 1 cm (0,4”). Work the side ribbing according to the instructions but change the number of stitches for the stocking stitch parts in back and front respectively with half of the number of stitches you have added or subtracted. After the ribbing, follow the principles for the original waist size and increase 1 stitch below in each of these stitches. My hip width is 104 cm (41,5”) and the intructions cover a width of 104-110 cm (41,5” – 44”). If you need to change the width over the hips you can do fewer or more side increses. If you decide to do more increses I recommend that you place them closer than on every 5th row, If you use a long circular needle, you can try the knickers on and check the fit as you knit!
Translation: Anna Mattisson